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Catherine (Catharine) Stewart Forbes - incorrect spelling beacuse of mistake by newspaper reporters.
Katherine Stewart Forbes - Diaries on line - free. www.jillsjottings.orcon.net.nz
Notes of a Voyage from London to
New Zealand
on the Barque
“Katherine Stewart Forbes.”
By A. Webster.
There is no known picture of the ship, which was built at
Northfleet, England in 1818, but this illustration of a similar Barque was
supplied by National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, England. An Auckland newspaper
reporter incorrectly spelt the name and the error has continued in subsequent
publications. The correct spelling (as above) has been confirmed from the
ship’s Log.
Auckland
City Libraries Special Collections
N.Z.
MSS.146
As transcribed by Jill Kemp.
41 Plateau Heights,
Mt. Maunganui,
3116
New Zealand.
When I stood in front of a glass case displaying a ship’s diary and read “Katherine Stewart Forbes” it was almost unbelievable! Of all the ship’s diaries held in the Archives, the fact that this one in particular was selected for display seemed providential! (It is unlikely I would have ever known about it, as the name of the ship is not included in its file name.) The diary had been chosen as part of a Shipping Display, held in the Auckland City Libraries Rare Book Room, in January 1992. I could hardly wait for the display to finish so that I might examine it for myself. To hold it in my hands and know that this little book had sailed 12,000 miles with my ancestors was quite an emotional experience, but I was soon frustrated by the difficulty of deciphering the script. With the kind permission of the Librarians I started the long job of transcribing it. Two hour stretches of copying in pencil was all the concentration my brain could cope with and I became an expert at finding broken parking meters, give or take a few parking tickets! Some words took years to finally decipher. It has been a life changing experience for me. I first learned to type and after the frustration of having to redo every page to insert elusive words, progressed to a computer! Through this little diary I finally understood the conditions under which my forbears immigrated to this country and came to hold the writer in high regard. I have been able to contact his descendants and discover more about him. Prior to this transcription, they had also found it impossible to read the complete manuscript. I have been unable to locate a picture of the Katherine Stewart Forbes so, to commemorate the 150th anniversary of this voyage, our family has commissioned two
paintings depicting scenes described in
this diary and I am interested in contacting descendants of other passengers.
Jill Kemp
Page: 4
First page of original Diary.
43 Chess game as copied from original
44 Draughts game as copied from original
47 Drawing of fishhook used to catch Albatross– copy of original
53 Newspaper extracts
54 Newspaper extracts
55 Newspaper extracts
56 Piano
arrives for Revd. Lush (Colonial Fare- Jill Brewer)
Punctuation has been added to assist the modern reader.
Original
spelling has been retained.
"KATHARINE STEWART FORBES"
750 Tons Burthen.
Wm. Wright. Commander.
October 1849 [actually 1851]
Tuesday 22nd
Cleared
out from St Katharine's Dock on Thursday 17th at 4pm and passed down the river
with the aid of a Tug Steamer. About 7, thro' the carelessness of the Pilot, got
stuck in the mud and had to wait on the morning tide. Got off at 2 and reached
Graves End at 6am. Friday and Saturday then occupied in making preparations for
sea, the passengers fixing up any little extras for comfort in their berths,
lashing or nailing down their luggage, etc. while the ship's crew ever busy
shipping fresh provisions of livestock (pigs, sheep and poultry).
On Saturday we had
a visit from the Government Inspector of Emigrant Ships whose duty it is to see
that the vessel is sufficiently provisioned, properly manned, and the passengers
and crew all in good health. The result of his investigations proved that we
were short of provisions for one man and that we required extra, one Able
Bodied Seaman and one Apprentice. He also listened to the complaints of a few of
the Steerage passengers of detention of the ship's sailing and gave a decision
in their favour. I understand they were allowed 1/- per day from the date
advertised for sailing (10th) to the time at which they were put on ship
allowance (the 18th). Everything being ready and a favourable light breeze
springing up, we weighed anchor on the following morning (Sunday) at 5 and bade
goodbye to our Graves End friends.
About 7pm came
abreast of the Goodwin Sands. The wind being then light and the tide setting in
against us the Captain thought prudent to wait for the morning light and a more
favourable wind to weather the Sands. So we cast anchor off Pearl. This being
Sunday we had the Religious Services on board (both in our department of the
ship - Fore Cabin) to which all who wanted to attended. There was a very
respectable attendance [with] two young married men of our party officiating in
the Church of England style, there being no Clergyman on board except a R.
Catholic Priest. It is expected that all who consider themselves qualified to
deliver and address will see it their duty to do so, that the work well begun
may be continued 'till the end of our voyage. The Captain expressed his approval
of our endeavours to respect the Sabbath and signified his willingness to assist
us, as far as lay in his power.
This morning, about
˝ past 5, I was awoke by the lively song of the sailors weighing anchor. Got on
deck just as we were passing the Downs with a good stiff breeze. The water about
us was studded with vessels of all sizes. I counted 17 who, like ourselves,
outward bound had been lying in the Downs waiting for a favorable wind. Amongst
them was the "William Hyde," also for New Zealand
(Canterbury and Nelson). We had now an opportunity for judging of the
sailing qualities of our Katharine. At starting there was 8 sail ahead of us and
the W.H. close astern. In 4 hours we had passed them all with the exception of
one which must have been a Clipper. By 6pm the W.H. was astern about 5 miles.
This has been a lovely day, clear and warm, with a steady S.E. wind blowing us
thru the water at the rate of 8 knot.
I have not
yet learned exactly the number of passengers on board but as far as I can judge,
65 (men, women and children) will come close to the mark. She carries 16 of a
crew with Captain, 1st, 2nd and 3rd Mates, Doctor, Carpenter, Cook, and four
Stewards and assistants. To all appearance the above respective posts are well
filled with intelligent, active, and obliging individuals. So, with fair,
average weather, we may calculate on a pleasant and speedy passage.
I may here note the
victims of our cabin. I call them such as we are so closely packed together that
I know not how we shall breathe when we reach the warmer latitudes.
All together we have 11 enclosed berths or Cabins. This sketch will give you an idea of our position.
Berths.
No 1 Mess. Yates & Byrne
No 9
Mr & Mrs Schalder
No 2 Mr & Mrs Webster
No 10 Mr
& Mrs Pratt & 4 Children
No 3 Miss Reid & 3 Ladies
No
11 Two Ships Officers
No 4 Mess Mason, Parker, Fulton & Webster No
12 Water Closet [Toilet]
No
5 Mr & Mrs Patterson
No 13 Chief Cabin
No 6 Mr & Mrs Button
No 7 2nd Mate & Carpenter
No 8 Mr & Mrs Burton
Berth No.1 held by
an Irishman named Yates and a youth named Byrne from the same country. The
former is a blustering sort of chap. Spends his time in attending to the wants
of the young ladies, reading and spouting poetry, playing cards chess etc and
wears a horrid (ugh) moustache.
No.2 is occupied by
a married couple, English, named Webster. Quiet and agreeable, no family.
No.3 fitted up for
and possessed by 4 young unmarried
ladies. Three of them are Irish and the other English named Reid. They are a
lively set and keep us in amusement. They are very obliging and make themselves
generally usefull.
No.4 is our cabin. Messieurs Mason, Parker, Fulton and
Webster. Parker is an Englishman and the other three from Glasgow. Mr Fulton
joined the ship at Graves End the evening before she set sail, and we were
obliged to take him into our cabin, although we had all our arrangements made
for three. I think this berth of ours is now the most crowded part of the
vessel, only one of us can dress in it at one time. Mr Parker goes out to claim
some property left him by a brother. Messrs. Mason, Fulton and Webster go on
spec. to see the country, uncertain whether they remain or return.
No.5
is inhabited by a Mr & Mrs Patterson, a very kind and obliging
couple, no family, from New Castle - Tyne. Mr P. is a Machine Maker and Fitter.
The object of his present voyage is to try the timber cutting by steam at New
Plymouth.
No.6 is a young
couple 18 months married, no family, by the name Button. They go to New Plymouth
to farm.
No.7 is occupied by
the 2nd Mate & Carpenter.
No.8 on the
opposite side is possessed by a Mr & Mrs Burton, young and no family.
No.9 Mr & Mrs
Schalders, young, no family.
No.10 is the cabin
of a very nice family named Pratt. The Gent. is English, the lady Irish. They
have four of a family, two of them children who keep up an incessant squalling.
They go to New Plymouth to farm.
No.11 is the
sleeping berth of two officers of the ship
No’s 7 and 11
mess at the ship's table. We mess
in lots of 6 to 8.
No’s 1 & 2 together form one. No’s 4, 5 and 6 another and No’s 8, 9, 10 another.
A Superintendent is
appointed over each mess, relieved weekly, whose duty it is to look after the
water and provisions and other small matters.
We rise at 6am,
breakfast at 8, dine at 1, supper at 6.
Thursday 24th
Yesterday was dull
misty sort of day with a light breeze. We are now getting into rough water, 'tho
nothing yet to speak of. Passed Portland at 11am today. Towards noon the wind
had freshened and by 2pm passed the
Ediston Light House. A number of passengers on this day showing symptoms of the
much-dreaded sickness. Mr Parker has gone to bed "very bad" as he
says.
Friday 25th
Got up this morning
just in time to catch a parting glimpse of Old England, the double light on the
Lizard Point, Lands End was just visible. In another hour it had disappeared.
Last night was very
boisterous and it has continued stormy all today. Few people to be seen on deck.
Last night and today has been a settler for most of us. I turned decidedly bad
about 3 p.m. and gave my dinner to the fishes. I am now (7o'clock) much better.
Our cabin is now in
a pitiful condition; regrets of leaving home and sundry other lamentations are
very prevalent. It is no pleasant matter to sit vomiting, as I now do, the ship
pitching and rolling furiously, every moment like to be pitched off my seat,
dishes and all sorts of packages rolling about the floor. Pale faced, unshaven
husbands dimly seen moving by the light of our lamp like Spectres, endeavouring
to assist their more helpless wives. One woman lies stretched at the companion
ladder wither she had gone, I presume, to breath some fresh air. Another lies
across the threshold of her berth. Endeavouring to gain her bed she has fallen
and feels content with her position, or unable to rise.
I hear the Irish girl declare it a shame for the Captain to roule
about the ship so.
Besides all these
disagreeables, we have the incessant creaking of the old ship's timber and the
rumbling noise above our heads of ropes and chains which are being dragged about
by the orders of our Commander. Parker has been in bed all day, Fulton since 2
o'clock, Mason is on deck standing it out well. I took no tea tonight, had a
little drop of brandy and a taste of fruit and feel remarkably well over it. I
begin to think I am to get through the ordeal very easy.
A shoal of
porpoises passed us this morning.
Saturday
A repetition of
yesterday. I feel almost well and am able to lend a helping hand to the
unfortunates around me. Sago, arrowroot, gruel and wines in great demand.
We have still a heavy broken sea, the wind strong, but
still favourable. We have gone 168 miles on our course this last 24 hours. We
have had beautiful sailing weather since we left the Downs. A finer run out of
the Channel could not have been made. 8 days is an average time for ships to
clear it, and three weeks is a common occurrence. We have made it in 3 days.
Sunday
Still blowing
strong. This day's sailing has averaged 7 ˝ Knots.
I
am now quite free from sickness. Mr Mason and I have suffered less, to all
appearances, than any of our fellow passengers.
No Service today, a
congregation could not be mustered. Sickness still very prevalent, some very
bad.
Sea high and much
broken, which makes the ship to cadge about very much. Caught two good duckings
while looking over the weather side of the ship and had to change from top to
toe.
At 4 pm sighted a
Brig bearing down on our course. Up went our Union Jack and the Helm put up so
that we might pass her at speaking distance. In a few moments she hoisted her
colours, "Prussian". None on board seemed capable of understanding us.
On asking where they were bound for they answered "NO."
If they would report us, "No."
My fatigue, or
Service week, commenced yesterday and I am certainly fixed for what will likely
prove to be the most troublesome part of our journey. I have the wants of the
sick people to attend to. Nothing will lie on their weak stomachs. The two
ladies, poor creatures, are certainly very bad. They have not been out of bed
since Friday, but my friend Parker is the most troublesome of any. He is an out
and out Englisher and 'tho I have been supplying him with innumerable delicate
dishes in the shape of Sago, Tapioca, Gruel, Wine, Brandy etc. he declares, when
anyone asks him how he feels, that he is so very weak, and “no wonder”, he
adds, as he has not taken anything since Thursday. He still keeps his bed. I
shall have him hoisted on deck the first good day.
Monday 28th
This has been the
most beautiful day. All who were able to lift up their head were prevailed on to
go on deck. Beds and bedding were all hoisted on deck and cabin washed out. I
had our department sprinkled with vinegar, which was a great improvement.
I was very busy the
whole of this day receiving store for one week. Monday is the day set
apart for this purpose. The only articles, of which a daily allowance is
given, are water, meat, bread and potatoes. We have a very nice fellow of
a cook (an old pastry baker from London) who knocks up anything we may require.
Our ship today had
the appearance of a broken state. All sorts of stools and chairs lay about the
deck while from every spare rope dangled blankets and sheets of every size and
quality. I was glad to see, by the afternoon, visible signs of improvement on
our sick companions who had been carried up from their berths. A day or two will
make them alright. I am now in prime order having proved myself a good sailor,
being sick only 4 hours. I had Mr Parker propt up amongst his bedding all day on
top of the Long boat. He thinks he is better but still feels very weak.
It now (8 pm) blows
strong. Still favourable. Main and Fore top Gallant sails now taken down and
Main topsail reefed. It blows fresher tonight than we have yet had it. We must
be going at a rattling speed, the ship lays over very much to the side.
Tuesday 29th
Fine steady wind.
We have been going since last night 10 to 12 knots an hour. Splendid work. We
now ly abreast of Gibraltar. In a day or two, at this rate, we will reach the
N.E. Trades and fine weather. To all appearance we will have a quick passage. At
all events we have had a very fine start.
Had a long yarn
tonight with the Carpenter. He was at Hokeanga 9 months ago, and knows all the
folks there, had also heard of both John and William.
Thursday 31st
Wind and weather
still continuing to favour us. Last night it blew very strong and the sea ran
very high. Great caution must be observed in such weather how one proceeds along
the decks. It requires great navigation to pick our steps in anything like
steadiness. Long a stream of hungry intrepids hurrying forward to the Galley
from extreme end of the ship, laden with the necessary apparatus in the shape of
tin hook pots, mugs etc. to convey to their cabins the savoury victuals there
awaiting them. Probably a huge dish containing a piece of salt beef, swimming in
pea soup. Now comes the difficulty, for both hands are employed in holding the
rocking compound. Before proceeding the motion of the ship is studied, but while
intent in preserving the level of the soup, the treacherous waters give the ship
such an alive twist that render it quite impossible for the party to retain his
equilibrium. Down he comes, splattering his precious burden about the legs of
the unfortunate before him.
If this wind holds
on we will reach Maderia by Saturday. The Captain says he may ly to, if the
weather permits, to give us a chance of purchasing fruit etc and sending home
letters.
The weather now
gets noticeably warmer and light clothing is needed. The evenings are beautiful.
There is no scarcity of amusement for all who feel inclined. Games, dancing,
music, it is all carried on 'til 4 bells (10 o'clock) strike when it is expected
that all will retire for the evening.
Toward 10 o'clock
last night the wind shifted from a fair wind off the port, to a right abaft and
continued to increase in power 'til
about 12 when it blew a regular gale, lifting our Barque almost out of the
water. It carried off our M.T.G. Studding sails. The Mate remarked this morning
that it blew so stiff that he had to get two men to hold his head on.
Today, after a hard
run of 10 hours, we overtook and passed a Dutch Brig bound for Rio Janerio - 13
days from Liverpoole.
A number of the
passengers waited on the Captain today to see if he could, or would, make any
alteration in part of their stores, which they declare, can't be made use of.
They proposed to give all their allowance of salt beef and pork, amounting to
(in a Mess) about 24lbs weekly, for a tin of preserved mutton containing 4lbs.
However, they were told that no substitution of fares could be effected. Our
Mess have entirely discarded the salt meat. It makes us so thirsty, which
doesn't suit on a small allowance of water.
It now (8pm) rains
and the evening must be spent between decks. Two large oil lamps are suspended
over our heads, just sufficient to make darkness visible. Along the tables on
each side are seated parties engaged at various occupations: some at cards, some
at music, others at chess, while a few larger groups are eagerly listening to
wondrous stories from some of Officers of the ship, etc, etc.
Saturday
Passed
Maderia tonight about 7. Did not stop, nor did we have a chance of
sending our letters on shore. This has been a fine, mild day, light breeze
abaft.
Have had all my
fishing tackle rigged out as I am told we may soon fall in with Spouts. We have
hitherto seen none (with the exception of porpoises) of the inhabitants of the
deep.
This afternoon an
accident befell one of our ladies of No 3 berth. She had set herself on a chair
near our cabin hatchway, and had by the motion of the vessel been rocked to
sleep. She might have been wrapt in sound slumber, or dreaming of the bright
future, but certain it is a sudden stop was put to her stolen nap. An extra
heavy lurch of the ship and down the trap stair of the hatch she went, head
foremost, chair and all. Wonderful to relate, she escaped unhurt. However, after
being examined and told all was right, she thought proper to finish it up with a
few good healthy screams when she was ordered to bed.
Monday
It has been proposed by some of the young men on board, to establish a newspaper or journal to be published weekly and a notice to the following effect has been circulated throughout the ship:
------------
“Punch on the Atlantic!”
------------
I have no
doubt from the seeming talent on board that this will prove a source of
amusement and instruction.
Yesterday, being
Sunday, there was a Religious service on board morning and evening, the Captain
conducting assisted by one of the passengers. A band musicale was formed, vocal
and instrumental, with good effect.
Tuesday
Lovely warm day,
fair but very gentle breeze. A change in costume throughout the ship is now
noticeable. Dark, heavy, warm clothing has been laid aside for the more light
and luxurious summer textures.
This morning I
commenced my sunbathing which I intend to continue 'til the end of our voyage. I
arose at about ˝ past 5, roused up
my friend next door, Mr Button and proceeded to the bow of the ship. I had the
most refreshing douche bath from the ship's buckets.
Today I was
tempted, by the beauty of the water which rippled so sweetly past us, to mount
the fore rigging in order to indulge in a more extensive view. However, I was
not suffered to remain long unmolested. My retreat was soon discovered and two
sailors, lashings in hand, were quickly by my side. My arms were pinioned and
made fast to the crosstrees. Here I remained until I promised to pay the fine. I
am now a free man and can tread the hallowed ground at my pleasure.
Wednesday
This has been
another charming day and one of some little note, being none less than our jolly
Captain's birthday. He stood treat to all on board and not a few got sprung over
it. In the evening we had singing, dancing and games.
About midday we
signalled a Portuguese Brig ahead of us. She hove to and awaited our approach.
On nearing her she was observed to launch a boat, so we prepared ourselves for a
visit. The sailors were telling the women that they were pirates coming to
attack us, which put them in no small fright. They were soon alongside and a
suspicious looking, ill clad set they were. One of them could speak bad English
and gave us to understand that they had lost their way, their chronometer having
gone wrong. They had been out 13 days from Madeira and had been knocking about,
not knowing where they were. The Captain ordered them back for their instrument,
set it right for them, gave them a lat. and long, and again set them adrift.
Saturday, 9th November
Since Wednesday
evening, 'til the present time, have had foul weather - head winds and rains. 4
points off our course. During rains, pails and buckets etc. are placed to catch
as much fresh water as possible. I am told we depend in a great measure for
supply in this way, both for drinking and cooking purposes.
Kept watch 'til
midnight yesterday with the Mate. By a little attention these worthies are all
accessible and a good deal of information in seafaring matters is to be picked
up from them.
Had a long
conversation last night with some of the Poop cabin passengers. Some of the Fore
cabin folks were enjoying the seeming comforts of our more aristocratic friends
but it appears that we have reason to be content with our situation. They
complain sadly of the way their table is served. Their tea is scarcely
drinkable, from the manner it is prepared, being boiled altogether in a large
pot after the fashion of Scotch Kale. They are also obliged to take
whatever is prepared for them. We, on the other hand, have whatever we may fancy
for the trouble of handing the materials to the cook and seeing them prepared.
From what I have
seen, I would advise all intending Emigrants to select their berths in the Fore
cabin but to be sure to put up “extra roomy.” It will cost
them a few pounds more but the comfort it will purchase for them will be very
cheap at the price. A good supply of private stores should also be taken. I will
mention a few articles specially relishable: arrowroot, sago, smoked
bacon, ham, eggs, preserves, a good supply of baking powder, a few cans of
preserved fresh meat, preserved milk, wines and a little whisky, a good supply
of fruit (good apples are the best, these are very refreshing after sickness)
lime juice or raspberry vinegar. (The water is quite unpalatable without
something in it). Other articles may be added for baking purposes. With a good
supply of such articles a long voyage may be made very pleasant.
After sickness the
motion of the ship, "the feet," is not unpleasant. Indeed, I now begin
to like it and to me it is anything but disagreeable to be rocked to sleep in
the cradle of the deep.
Had a visit from
the Doctor. He had heard that I had been distributing some medicine amongst some
of the passengers and requested to know if I had any to spare as he was
run short. A precious Doctor to run out of medicine ere our passage was well
begun! I think very little indeed of this functionary. He has a very
un-gentlemanly address and appears to be inexperienced. He is an Irishman and
means, I believe, to settle in one of the N.Z. settlements. He has got smuggled
out under the Title of "Experienced Surgeon," with free passage.
Should any trouble break out amongst us it will be a bad look out for us.
Meantime, all are
in good health and every precaution is taken to preserve the vessel in a healthy
condition. The upper decks are scrubbed every morning, from stem to stern,
between decks everything must be kept clean, beds aired and in fair weather a
wind sail passed over the fore and main hatches to act as ventilators.
We have reason to
believe that there are some not overly honest individuals on board. We (our
mess) have been missing several articles lately such as knives, spoons, plates
etc. I suspect one chap in the steerage, having found him prowling about our
cabin one evening when all others were on deck. A good example will be made of
the first we can find guilty.
Monday 10th
Lat 24° 23 N. Long
20° 43 W.
Yesterday was a melting day. Service morning and evening. About midday the wind
veered round to the N.E. and we are dashing along merrily.
Punch made his opening address this morning.
The following are a few extracts from it:
An old wife recommends the following to the attention of all:
I can't do it
- never did anything
I will try
- has worked wonders
I will do it
- has performed miracles
------------
Dear Mr Punch,
I heres from sum of my pals as your agoin to start a punch at see. Now Sir, with all proper respect for you, I thinks as how sich a thing aint at all rite an reglar, no body never heered or seed of a newspaper afloat, besides hows dicerplin to be kep up on board a ship where there's a paper. If you interfers, with one thing you will with another the sum day, "for there's no noing sum folks cheek."
You will take upon
yerslf to criticise our seamanship, so you see Mr Punch that ere sort o thing
won't never do no how and I hopes as how our skippers too good a sailor to put
up with any sich inervations a board his craft.
"The
man at the wheel".
------------
Mark Lame Express
Flour
- very
dear, great demand
Plaster of Paris
- market over stocked
Plum & other
doughs - dear and scarce
Bread
-
didn’t go off well
------------
Advertisements
Lost, stolen or strayed, a young lady’s heart. Was last seen on the Poop deck. Anyone finding the same will be liberally rewarded upon returning it to the owner, or (if a Gentleman) perhaps an exchange can be effected.
------------
Lost
The North East
Trades. They must be somewhere in the neighbourhood and
any one delivering the same on board the Kate Forbes will be rewarded.
------------
Births - In the Captains cabin, a male child, mother unknown.
- In the Doctor's cabin sundry Eggs.
Deaths - 2 pigs, 12 fowls and
sundry smaller animals
------------
Tuesday 12th
We fancy we have
now caught the N.E. Trades. It blows light but steady. Thermometer 79° in the shade. The evenings are now beautiful, so clear
as to enable us with perfect ease to read or write. We are now in the tropics
(Cancer).
Articles still
going a missing from our cabin. I wrote out the following for Punch:
A Voice from the Fore
Cabin.
When and oh where have our knives and tin plates gone?? Within the last few days several indispensible articles of the above description (not withstanding our utmost care to prevent it) have shown a decided disposition for roving - many of these knives have actually cut their sticks. We suspect they have been influenced in their movements by their contact with the forks of some neighbours to whose nocturnal visits we attribute our being left thus - unfairly dished. We would advise all such poachers for the future to "Beware the dog !"
------------
Bugs have been
discovered in most parts of the ship. They seem to be worse in the Chief cabin,
they are also in our cabin. Our berth and No 9 are the only exception. We have
several families of cockroaches about us and the seamen tell me that where these
are found bugs don't live, so we keep up the breed of the larger insects, which
don't annoy us as much.
Wednesday
We have had a
little excitement on board today. Three of the Chief Cabin passengers told the
2nd mate that they were half starved in their cabin and wished they could have
something to eat (this was shortly after dinner). They were invited down to our
cabin where the Carpenter, 2nd and 3rd Mates have their berths, where they made
themselves hearty. The effect of their visit was that the three Officers above
named were rendered nearly unfit for duty. The passengers were reprimanded by
the Captain who told them that they would be severely punished if again found
guilty and that they had no right whatever in our cabin.
Immediately after
this, a nice mince pie was stolen out of our cabin and the Captain being at hand
was advised of the circumstances. Many now came forward, each with his story of
woe. However, nothing could be made out of it. No one had seen the thief or
thieves in the act. However, the Captain says that he will find it
out. He will have some new regulations drawn up for us tomorrow.
We had some rockets
and other fireworks on board tonight which had the most beautiful effect on the
waters.
Friday
This morning came
in sight of St. Antonia, one of the Cape Verdi group of islands. We were in
hopes of being able to reach it in time this afternoon to land with letters and
make purchases. The Captain had kindly promised to buy for us anything that the
island produced and a long list was soon made up chiefly composed of grapes,
oranges, lemons, pumpkins, melons, figs and apples. A few ordered eggs and
bread, live goats, and turkeys and two were down for monkeys. However, the
Captain was saved his trouble and we our money merely thro' the agency of the
wind. We had it blowing fresh and favourable in the early part of the day but
just as we had gained within 3 or 4 miles of it and were employed in
endeavouring to trace out with our glasses the loaded orchards etc. it suddenly
fell and what was worse soon afterwards veered around and blew us out of the
reach of all the tempting victuals on which our fancy had been luxuriating. This
is the second time we have been disappointed in making land. Not that we have
any necessity for touching at any island but merely to give us a chance of
sending home letters to our friends and procuring of the delicious products of
the tropics. We have still hopes of making some of this group of islands.
Antonia has a very
striking appearance. It is but a small speck in the water but rises to an
enormous height. Great piles of jutting rock rise nearly perpendicular from the
dashing waters which wash its base. Great chasms, vents and gullies are open to
view in every direction.
Altogether
it was the greatest mass of terrific grandeur I have ever seen. I understand
that in the valleys only are to be found traces of life and vegetation.
Mo
Have had light and
variable winds this last two days. The sailors say it is always so in the
vicinity of the Cape Verdi Islands. However, we have now bid them goodbye and
are dashing forward on our course 8 - 10 knots an hour.
Yesterday we came
abreast of other two of the islands, Bravo and St. Jago. We were quite close to
the former at midday and hailed a fishing boat but they either did not care
about us, or were too intent on pursuing their vocation, as they would not come
alongside. We could not land, as the coast was so rugged.
It was just such another spot as St Antonia with this difference, that
Bravo seemed to be better cultivated. With the aid of a telescope we could
distinctly observe the plantations and dwellings of the inhabitants.
While lying off the
island we were favoured with a visit from three monsters of sharks. Hooks,
baited with pork, were speedily at their service but they were not to be drawn.
They were evidently in clover as the waters about were boiling with fish on
which they fed.
The weather is now
oppressively hot, it is painful to move about during the day. We are roasted and
at night stew in our berths. A great many of the passengers are ailing, not
seriously, but of those derangement's consequent on change of living and
climate. In our cabin we have the prickly heat, boils, headache,
heat burns etc. I am quite well. I took the precaution to partake liberally of
Physics the first week I came on board.
Tuesday 18th
Beautiful, clear
day. Fine steady wind from noon of yesterday 'til noon of today. We have gone
over 200 miles on our course. We are now steering nearly due south. If this wind
holds on we will cross The Line on Saturday or Sunday.
Tried dolphin and
albacore today but they would not take. There has not been a single fish caught
since we left.
The days now seem
to pass over more heavily. We attribute this to the great heat to which we are
now exposed. Every spark of spirit and animation seem to evaporate before the
powerful rays of the Sol. To read continuously for ˝ an hour is a heavy task.
Wednesday 19th
Fine clear day,
very warm. I find I can no longer bare the heat of the confined cabin at night.
Our rest is quite un-refreshing. Instead of rising vigorous, I can scarcely move
up the hatchway and it is only after my morning ablutions (6 or 8 buckets of
salt water) that I can exert myself to do anything. Numbers now sleep on deck,
altho' the Doctor declares it to be quite injurious. However, this worthy advice
is not in the slightest cared for. We act on our own responsibility.
I have been busy
today, washing up a few odd things. We dirty very few articles on board ship.
We are this day N
lat 9°. Light but steady breeze.
Thursday 20th
Calm and squalls
alternately thro' out this day, accompanied by very heavy rains, thunder and
lightening. The lightening is beautifully vivid and of considerable duration,
lightening up for a few seconds the dark, troubled ocean for miles around.
Most of the
passengers are below and hatches down which creates a stifling heat. While I
write, Mrs Pratt, our opposite neighbour, has gone into hysterics.
Our cabin presents
a scene of great disaster and confusion. I had intended to make my bed tonight,
as I did last evening, in front of my cabin but outside right under the hatch
but the heavy rain has rendered it impossible. The between decks are soaking
wet, so I must again go under the seething process in our ovens of cabins.
Last night, or
rather early this morning, we were all alarmed by cries of danger from the
Watch. I had lain down to sleep in the passage in front of my berth when I was
startled from my slumbers by the shouts of the seamen. I listened for a moment,
but only a moment, for the nature of the sounds implied immanent danger.
"Port Helm
hard up, hard up. Ship ahoy. Ship ahoy.”
I seized my life
preserver and rushed up stairs. I was the first on deck. The cause of our danger
was a black, suspicious looking Brig within a few feet of our weather bow. I was
quite prepared for a collision, for she seemed not to heed us. Providentially,
however, we weathered her and diverted her astern and it is the Captain's belief
she is a Slaver and that her Watch was asleep.
I have been busy
today, preparing a Bathing Establishment for the ladies on board. It will be in
operation tomorrow. Passed two homeward bound Frenchmen today. Spoke the first
bound to a port, she promised to report us. We have not yet had the good fortune
to meet an English homeward bound vessel altho' we have been, for the last 14
days, in the most likely latitudes for meeting them. We have letters prepared,
to send home.
Saturday
Very changeable
weather yesterday and today. We have had a succession of calms, squalls and head
winds. At one time we have an unclouded sky and scarcely a breath of wind, the
passengers again mounted on deck. Bedding and other articles have just been hung
up to air when dark, pretentious masses of clouds rise rapidly to evidence the
approaching squall distinctly visible, miles off. Down comes our Mizzen,
Studding, Fore and Main Royale and Top Gallant sails, the bed clothes disappear,
passengers take shelter between decks or under the large sheets of canvas spread
out for an awning. The preparations are scarcely completed ere the ferocious
blast has reached us, accompanied by such heavy rains as are only to be found in
the Tropics.
It is a
comparatively easy task to prepare to meet these sudden changes during daylight
but after sunset, when darkness sets in, more caution is necessary to prevent
disaster. Last evening about 8 we were unexpectedly caught, tho' not altogether
unprepared (for our Captain is both a cautious and skilful seaman) still
sufficiently so to create confusion. The sailors told me this morning that it
was with great difficulty they could reef the Top sails, it blew so strong. When
the storm first caught us it sent our Barque nearly on her beam end and it was
only after the above sails were taken in that she returned a tolerably
comfortable position. During this gale the rain fell in almost solid sheets
which rushing down our hatchway, despite our canvas covering, kept us all
mopping it up to prevent it flooding our berths.
Yesterday, I again
tried the fishing and was successful in capturing two fish, one Albacore and one
Bonito, the only two fish caught yet (altho' there have been numbers trying them
for 10 days back.) The first fish we had prepared for dinner today. It was much
liked by all. The second, weighing about 10lbs, I got prepared for the Captain's
table.
We have made but
little progress since Wednesday. I believe we are now 5° north of the Line.
Sunday 23rd November, 1851
Last night, about
10, the rain fell in torrents rushing down our hatchway. It was discovered that
the tarpaulin, which covers the hold under our hatch, had been removed and that
the wet was finding it's way down amongst the goods. A row amongst the
passengers was the consequence. The Officers of the ship were in great wrath
about it. After a great deal of
angry contention the blame was found attributable to two individuals in my mess
- Messrs. Parker and Patterson. It seemed that during the day it had, by
accident, got soiled and the above parties had taken it on deck to have it
cleaned (it is against the rules to remove it) and had neglected to bring it
down again.
We have had a
number of petty annoyances and disagreements lately throughout the whole ship.
It is a pity, as it mars the general harmony so essential to the comfort and
happiness of all but it is only another proof of the weakness and short
sightedness of man. Even in my own mess of only 8 individuals it has been found
necessary to make new arrangements to secure quiet. Parties, from whom I would
have expected a greater amount of prudence and honourable dealing, have been
amongst the first to act the vain and jealous dissemblers. However, we must take
matters as we find them. Better luck next time. There may be and no doubt
there is, errors on both (or all) sides and any bad feeling that may have shown
it's self amongst us is mainly traceable to our own inexperience.
It requires great
prudence and discretion to enable oneself to be at once agreeable and
independent amongst so many and so far as I can judge, travelling is the very
best school for learning how we ought to conduct ourselves. A degree of
selfishness (not the mean, low, sordid, narrow mindedness which the word
generally implies) is absolutely required in mixing with strangers, especially
when there is a probability (as in my present case) of being necessitated to
hold daily intercourse with them. I trust we may have no more disagreements and
that we may all see the advantage of striving to maintain the general union.
We had a Religious
service this morning at 11. The weather was too boisterous to admit of our
mustering in the evening.
Altogether, the
weather has been since last night, unsettled. We are sailing 4 points off our
course. The N.E. Trades have been of very little use to us as yet. Indeed we may
say that we have never got them.
Monday 24th
N. Lat 4
15° Long 22° 9 W.
This has been a
more settled day, the wind steady from the S.E. This may be the first of the
S.E. Trades. They are frequently caught as far north as we are now in.